long live the taverna.
every time we visit athens, we fall in love with it a little more. there is no doubt that the city is enjoying an explosion in its food scene, but the hospitality and cooking from some of its time-tested establishments deserve kudos.
here is our pick of tavernas in the city.
diporto.
an athenian stalwart. open for almost a century and beloved still today. nestled in the basement of a decrepit building, ‘diporto’ means two doors, and to reach this hidden gem requires entering through one of them and navigating steep stone steps into a simple kitchen-come-dining room. local word is that it is closing: the building lease is up and diporto will go with it. a loss to the culinary heritage of the city, if this turns out to be true. simple dishes, an unchanging menu. red or white wine served by the carafe. no menu, no music, just simple, hearty cooking + hospitality that is hard to forget. visit while you can.
located far from the hum of plaka and central athens. the neighbourhood here feels local and grounded. much like the cooking in Oikonomou. open since 1930, it feels nostalgic and welcoming. hearty plates defined by home cooking: cabbage leaves stuffed with meat. braised rooster with rice. potatoes drenched in olive oil. home-cooking, done well.
seychelles feels like visiting a friend’s home for a meal. vibrant, cheerful, uncomplicated. self-described as ‘greek soul food’, and we would have to agree. the cooking is familiar but modern: the usual spread of dips, salads and starters, and we love all of it. the wine list has some gems, too.
a staple on our visit every time we return to athens. worth the journey out of the centre. visit in summer and sit under the glittering lights in their makeshift courtyard. the taverna inside is warm and vibrant. some of the best hospitality in the city - and the most exciting cooking. imaginative, fresh takes on old recipes that balance nostalgia with the delight of reinvention.